Stories from Deli

Johan Frans van Bemmelen, 1897

Guide to the Dutch East Indies: Composed by invitation of the Koninklyke Paketvaart Maatschappij (Royal Steam Packet Company)

http://seasiavisions.library.cornell.edu/catalog/sea:165

FROM BATAVIA TO DELI.

For those who wish to reach Deli (Langkat, Serdang) in the quickest manner, the direct steamer of the Royal Packet Company to the Belawan is the best way of travelling. The tourist, on the other hand, who wishes to see as much as possible of our Archipelago in a short time, will perhaps prefer to go there by way of Palembang or Banca, and afterwards to touch at Singapore. For these routes, he can also make use of the Packet Company’s boats. By the direct way to Deli, the passing of the Banca strait is the only thing that relieves the monotony of the journey. To the larboard, we see the low-lying shore of Sumatra ; to the starboard, the coasts of Banca rising higher up out of the water, behind which appears an isolated mountain. Banca is an interesting island in many respects. Geologically, it must be considered as an upheaval of the same earth ridge which forms the peninsula of Malakka. It contains rocks of ancient geological formations, whose sediments form layers of earth containing tin, which now constitutes the wealth of the island. From a botanical and zoological point of view, it differs more from Sumatra, which lies close by, than one would at first sight suspect ; this points to the fact that the vicinity is of comparatively recent date, as Sumatra is enlarging continuously in an eastern direction.

Banca is an interesting island in many respects. Geologically, it must be considered as an upheaval of the same earth ridge which forms the peninsula of Malakka. It contains rocks of ancient geological formations, whose sediments form layers of earth containing tin, which now constitutes the wealth of the island. From a botanical and zoological point of view, it differs more from Sumatra, which lies close by, than one would at first sight suspect; this points to the fact that the vicinity is of comparatively recent date, as Sumatra is enlarging continuously in an eastern direction.

DELI. Belawan.

On approaching Belawan, the harbour of Deli, the shore of Sumatra displays the same character as in the Banca strait; a long, low, dark-green streak, with a straight, unbroken line of coast stretching out into the muddy sea, while its upper edge, smooth and uniform, borders on the moist atmosphere, quivering with heat. It is only in the early morning that we see, far inland, a ridge of dim blue mountains, from which rise a couple of finely delineated volcanic cones. One of these is distinguished by a greyish-yellow tint, which has gained for it, erroneously, the name of Sulphur Mountain, and sometimes by a white plume of smoke hovering on its summit.

The broad stretch of lowland between the mountain range and the coast, has been formed by the sinking of the mud, washed away from the mountains, at the mouths of the rivers, and on both sides of their banks by the periodical inundations. The land is being continually increased by the woods along the coast, growing half into the sea, which consist almost entirely of mangrove or rhizo-phorae-trees (bakoe) standing above the water on a labyrinth of air roots, between which the mud remains hanging and accumulates. Thus the bottom of the sea, on which they take root, gradually becomes dry land, but underneath, along their outer edge, a new fringe of young plants has come up, which continue to form land. This power of being able to strike root in the sea, the mangroves owe to their extremely remarkable powers of reproduction. Their ripe seeds do not fall off, but begin to germinate on the trees which produced them and grow out into long staff-formed stalks, hanging perpendicularly in the air. When at last they get free from the branch, they sink by their own weight into the soft bottom of the sea, and remain sticking upright in it, whereupon their lower end immediately begins to strike firm root. Shortly afterwards, the part protruding above the water, sends forth leaves and branches. Slowly and cautiously, the steamer creeps in over the mud-bank at the mouth of the river; often compelled to stop or run aground on the soft and continuously shifting bottom, which the screw keeps sending up in dirty brown flakes. To the right and left, we see far out at sea, the nets of the Malay coast fishers. Slowly and cautiously, the steamer creeps in over the mud-bank at the mouth of the river; often compelled to stop or run aground on the soft and continuously shifting bottom, which the screw keeps sending up in dirty brown flakes. To the right and left, we see far out at sea, the nets of the Malay coast fishers.

Once over the bar, the boat can soon cast anchor in the spacious mouth (Kwala) of the Belawan river, right opposite the station of the Deli Railway. With a sampan, or along the gangway, we reach the pier, pass without much difficulty or loss of time, the Customhouse, and with one of the many trains can soon leave the damp, warm, and always very unhealthy harbour, and in a couple of hours reach the town of Medan. First we cross the railway bridge of the Kwala Deli, an interesting construction 380 metres long, consisting of twenty arches resting upon screw poles, which have been driven so far down into the soft mud till they have reached firm ground. Shortly after starting, we pass the old harbour Laboean, to which one formerly had to be rowed by sampan from Belawan. Before arriving at Medan, we have already gained an impression of the characteristic scenery of Deli: a large, bare, monotonous surface, for the most part covered with high alang-alang grass here called Lalang or with wild, tangled shrubs; little inhabited, except where here and there a tobacco plantation lies in the midst of the fields.

If we come at the time when the tobacco has been gathered in, then we see the greater part of these fields planted with rice, which the native population, according to their farm lease, may grow during the first year upon the fallow-lying tobacco-fields. A few cam pongs with their fruit-trees, and here and there a solitary toealang (bee-tree), which was spared when the primeval forest was rooted up, fail to break the monotony and desolateness of the scenery. On the contrary, they rather tend to increase it. Near Medan, we pass over an extensive railway-embankment full of luggage-trains and sheds, that gives one a lively impression of the commerce and prosperity which prevail in this tobacco country.

The numerous crowds of native, or rather non-European travellers, at every station, produce the same impression: Chinese, Malays, Javanese, Klingalese, Bengalese, and Battaks, swarm on the quays and fill the numerous and spacious third-class carriages. The majority of these people come from other parts, for the original Malay population was, and is still, small. When the first tobacco-planters came to Deli, the country was as thinly populated as the districts lying south and north of it on Sumatra’s east coast, and this small population appeared, moreover, both unwilling and unfit for the cultivation of tobacco, according to the European method.

So the planters were compelled to look for workmen elsewhere. The nearest place where coolies could be obtained, was the Straits Settlements, which supplied Chinamen, who appear admirably adapted for the cultivation of tobacco. As, however, the prices of the English coolie-brokers were exorbitantly high, the Deli Company contrived to effect a direct immigration from China. In smaller numbers there come to Deli, Javanese, Baweanese, Bandjarese, Klings (of the coast of Malabar), and Bengalese, the men of the last two races not, however, direct, but only from the Straits, and then, too, against the wishes of the English Indian Government.

All the building and appurtenances of the railway look new and modern, which can easily be understood when we remember that the line was only laid down in 1886. At Medan, the line is divided into three branches : one to the left (on the east) runs to Serdang (Perbaoengan); the middle one, a continuation of the main-line to Deli Toewa, on the slopes of the foot-ridges of the mountain range; and the one to the right runs (in a northern direction) to Bindjei and Selesseh. When the tobacco is shipped, we see many waggons laden with neat bales of tobacco, packed in fine matting, but at all times it stands full of loads of imported articles, especially atap (covering for roofs), and sticks for drying the tobacco (anak kajoe), wood, uncut and cut, stones, chalk, ironwork, artificial manure, provisions, liquors, rice, and fish. The Deli Railway, then, does a good business. It was built entirely with private capital, without any help from the Government.

Medan

Medan, the chief place of Deli, is the seat of the Resident of the east coast of Sumatra, and of the Sultan. It lies on the Deli river at its confluence with the Boboera. As soon as we have stepped out of the station into the spacious aloen-aloen, we perceive at the first glance that we have arrived at a new busy and flourishing place. In 1869 it was chosen by Nienhuys, the originator of the Deli Company, as the seat of their chief administration, on account of its adaptability for import and export. Before that time it was a wretched campong, surrounded by a double wall, traces of which still remain. It was not till 1871 that Medan had a doctor of its own. Now we find “de witte societeit ” (club), next to which stands the post and telegraph office, the barracks, the fort, large Chinese and other shops, a couple of hotels (the ” Orange” and “Medan” hotel), the racecourse, the Resident’s house, with offices, prisons, etc., and the establishments of the Deli Company.

What especially strikes the European coming from Java, is the more modern Western character in the laying out of the grounds and buildings, the greater variety in architecture, adapted to the mixed population. The cause of this lies in the proximity of the Straits Settlements and the overwhelming influence of planters, the chief elements of European colonists. These, of all nations, chiefly consisting of young enterprising men fresh from Europe, have imprinted a Western character upon everything, and in the arrangement of their dwellings and plantations have followed the examples of their English neighbours across the Straits, rather than those of Java, which lies farther off.

In society, we shall observe a closer connection with Europe, as the Deli tobacco-planters travel more frequently to and from Europe than the Dutch settlers of Java, who still, to a great extent, keep up the old custom of remaining twelve and even twenty years in the tropics.

Things worth seeing in Medan are: the palace of the Sultan, a new building erected by a European architect in a sort of Moorish style; the new Chinese temple, bearing witness to the vast sums of money which are earned in Deli by the sons of the Celestial Empire. The different buildings of the Deli Company have their chief office here. This, the largest and oldest of the many tobacco-cultivating companies, was established in 1869, and not long ago, celebrated its twenty-fifth year of existence. They then had 100,000 acres of land at their disposal, divided into twenty-one plantations in the provinces of Deli and Langkat, and worked with a capital of four million guilders and a reserve capital of millions. By their instrumentality, direct immigration of coolies from China was brought about; and by one of the members of their administration, a plan was devised by which the relation between these coolies and their masters was placed on a good and satisfactory basis. That the Deli Company provide well for their workmen, is shown by their hospital and also their asylum for immigrants, which they built in connection with other planters. Here contract-coolies, who by chronic or incurable diseases are unfit for work, find a temporary or permanent home.

Whoever stops at Deli for a shorter or longer time, will naturally pay a visit to one or more tobacco plantations. Everywhere he will find the arrangements much about the same. In the middle, a spacious house for the director, erected after the English-Indian bungalow type, rises high out of the ground. Next to it extends a gigantic fomenting barn, to which the tobacco is taken in the month of July to lie and foment for from six to nine months upon piles which keep getting larger and higher, whilst from September they are sorted by coolies who are seated in two long rows at the open sides: at the outside the sorters, and opposite them those that make up the bundles. Then the large airy shed of the Chinese workmen, the so-called ” Kongsi,” in the neighbourhood of which one or more native shops, here named ” Kedei,” are to be found, and other dwellings of Javanese, Klingalese, Bengalese, or Boyans.

The Javanese are woodmen, roadmakers, and gardeners; the Klingalese, cowherds, and drivers of ox waggons (karetta lemboe) ; the Bengalese, policemen; and the Boyans, carpenters; whilst the clearing of the forest is done by Battaks and Malays, temporarily engaged, who can also build barns and make roads. The tobacco-fields are divided into from four to six groups over the extensive land of the plantation, of which every year only a tenth to a fifth part is used for tobacco-growing. Each of these groups is under the superintendence of an assistant, who has under him about 100 workmen.

On both sides of a plantation road are found the fields, which in January, February, and March are prepared for the reception of the young plants by the cutting down and burning of the trees and by working the soil with the ” tjangkol,” or native spade. In April the ” bibit,” which has been sown on forcing-beds, is planted out on it, which in July can develop into plants (tobacco-trees) as high as a man. These are then cut down and taken to the drying-sheds. These lofty, long sheds, with their gigantic roofs of ” atap,” are arranged in a long row by the highroad, and are a characteristic of Deli scenery. The fallow-lying fields may for a year be sown with rice by the population. After this time, they are left to themselves and are soon covered with a wilderness of bushes or else high alang-alang grass. The latter is getting too much the upper hand in Deli, principally owing to the burning down of the forests, which either by accident or on purpose, are set on fire and cannot grow again.

The rewooding of land from which the tobacco has been gathered, is, therefore, one of the most difficult and important problems in Deli. If a choice is to be made, then a visit to a plantation farther in the interior, that is to say, situated on the borders of the hills, is to be recommended.

The scenery there gains much in beauty, owing to the flat country being almost entirely stripped of wood, and besides this, an opportunity is afforded us of learning something about the remarkable population of these highlands, the Battaks. The custom of cannibalism, to which this race of Malays owes its bad renown, does not exist, at least, amongst the Karro-Battaks, who live in the mountain districts on the borders of Deli, but they still have peculiarities enough to awaken the interest, even of the ordinary tourist, in the highest degree. In appearance, they do not differ very much from the Malays, although they can be distinguished from them. Their dress is generally extremely simple ; blue is the colour most commonly worn for ” sarongs, ” head-gear, and “slendangs,” both by men and women. The latter wear silver earrings of extraordinary size, so thick and heavy that they have to be fastened to their hair, and yet have stretched out the ear-laps to a tremendous length. The campongs are generally dirty and poverty-stricken. Underneath the low houses, supported on tottering poles, pigs dig up the ground, as the Battaks, being heathen, are allowed to eat the flesh of these animals. An open ” baleh,” or consultation house, serves also as a reception-room for strangers.

You have to climb up to it along the steep trunk of a tree, in which steps have been cut. In the vicinity of some campongs, houses for the dead are found, in which, however, only the trunk of the deceased is kept, the skull being kept apart, as it is looked upon as an object of great veneration. The Battaks of the plateau around the lake of Toba, possess an excellent breed of horses, which, however, through want of care in breeding and the great demand from the inhabitants of Deli, threatens to degenerate. A journey from Deli across the Battak plateau and to the northern bank of the Toba lake, is at the present day neither dangerous nor difficult. The chief obstacle is the expense of such a journey.