Stories from Deli

Java Bode 25-10-1897

Medan, October 1897

To stay true to the promise made at the end of my previous letter, I must begin with a brief mention of the celebration of our young queen’s birthday. Apart from the salutes and a parade, which was canceled due to the wet grass, there were a morning reception and an evening dance reception at the residency. The morning reception was very well attended, and the fact that it was officially announced that the administrator of the Deli Railway Company had been awarded a royal distinction, which was presented to him during the reception, added a bit of variation to the event.

In the evening, it quickly became apparent that the dance reception would also not lack for attendees. The crowd was astonishingly large, and it was a delightful mix of elegant ladies’ outfits and the uniforms of civil servants and local dignitaries, such as the sultans of Deli, Langkat, and Asahan. The Sultan of Deli is a small person, usually, and even now, dressed very simply. He moves about with ease and gives the impression of being good-natured and straightforward. The Sultan of Langkat, of similar stature, is more heavily built, with a sterner appearance and a more reserved demeanor. He was adorned with a substantial amount of money on his uniform, which attracted considerable attention. However, despite much speculation, no one could say exactly how much the entire outfit was worth. The Sultan of Asahan is a striking figure, over six feet tall, with a pleasant face and agreeable, refined manners.

In addition to the notable guests mentioned, there were many planters and other private individuals, so the forecourt of the residency was more than full. No effort was spared in making the ballroom as festive as possible; the entire house was occupied by guests, leaving no quiet corner for the resident. The event was a great success, and many speeches were made. The electric lighting was used for the first time in public; it worked very well, and it is hoped that plans to light all of Medan with incandescent lamps will soon be realized. However, it seems that raising the necessary funds is not proceeding as quickly as one would hope.

On the first and second days of the races, just after the start, it rained heavily. Nevertheless, the turnout was very large, with many ladies present. My commentary on the races, provided in a previous article, elicited a few remarks from W. L., “the little sports friend,” in your issue of October 5th. To save the sports friend further trouble, I will only give a few numbers from the results of the races. On the first day, there were 7 races; on the second day, another 7, making a total of 14 races. In 11 of those races, horses from the local government participated. Of those 11 horses, 8 won prizes, 3 prizes went to local chiefs, and thus only 3 prizes were left for other sports enthusiasts in Deli. These figures suggest little participation from the general public. The sports friend might know why.

On the third day, there were a few more races in the morning and a horse show, for which several sports enthusiasts had entered their horses that had not participated in the races. It was something new for Deli and seemed to be well-received. The weather was beautiful this time, and there was indeed a lot for horse lovers to see.

Also new for Deli is a regulation on cycling. It includes various provisions that are good, such as the requirement to use a lamp when it’s dark and to have a horn or bell. The obligation to remain stationary if one cannot pass is difficult to comply with. Since the regulation was made in consultation with and approved by His Highness the Sultan, it is somewhat strange that His Highness requested and obtained an exemption for himself and his entourage from displaying a number plate, which is also required by the regulation. The purpose of these number plates thus remains beyond the understanding of anyone not initiated into the mysteries of local governance measures. It is also strange that the regulation only applies to Medan and not to the entire East Coast. Moreover, creating this new regulation was less necessary than enforcing existing ones more strictly. No one has had any trouble with cyclists so far. During the day and at night, they will likely ensure their own safety as much as possible, for which no number of regulations can provide complete protection. However, to mention something else, what we do suffer from, especially at night, is the large number of stray dogs that brighten up (sic) Medan’s streets with their howling and barking. Now that provisions are being made to prevent accidents that might happen, it would be good to clear out these animals in view of the risks of rabies and its consequences and to make wearing a tag, whether with or without a tax, mandatory. There is already a regulation on this, so it would be much easier to enforce. That is to say, not on wearing tags but on euthanizing dogs or the creatures here that pass for dogs.

Our assistant resident made his first appearance in Deli in that capacity. He is already known from earlier times and, what’s more, is highly regarded. He has a reputation for not being fond of the courtesies that are sometimes offered unasked in the Indies, and there was no lack of a numerous honor guard of Chinese upon his arrival in Belawan, whose members were bowing like jackknives to the towan besar no. 2. So, life here goes on, with people coming and going; the local commander has now left, retired, to be replaced by another. The frequent changes among the officials and officers here are almost impossible to keep up with, but this can also, though not to the same extent, be said about the progress of Medan. Despite all the construction, houses remain scarce, and families often have to stay in hotels for months, sometimes unwillingly, because no house is available, and there is no prospect of this changing anytime soon.

Even scarcer these days is livestock for slaughter. Among a shipment brought here from Madura at great expense, foot-and-mouth disease broke out, and the Straits remain closed. It’s unfortunate that the quarantine in Belawan for our slaughter animals was lifted at such an inconvenient time and instead imposed in the Straits. It is highly desirable that the quarantine in Belawan be reinstated and that imports from the Straits be allowed. It’s becoming an expensive affair here, given the low dollar exchange rate. Even the locals understand it now, and market prices are 50% higher or double what they were a year ago.

X.