Stories from Deli

Java Bode 29-08-1895

August 21, 1895.

Anyone entering Deli should keep their expectations very low, expecting little to be pleasantly surprised. Approaching Deli from the sea, one first sees nothing but partially submerged high and low trees. It’s unclear where one will land until the mouth of a small river appears, requiring careful navigation, especially in the evening, to approach and enter without incident. After a short time steaming up the river, through swampy forest land, one arrives at Belawan, which is notoriously unhealthy. So unhealthy, in fact, that captains often prefer to stay offshore in the evening to avoid exposing passengers, crew, and themselves to the deadly swamp fumes and swarms of mosquitoes. Even though entering in the late afternoon exposes one to these dangers, it is unavoidable. By the time the ship reaches Belawan’s dock and is securely moored, it is usually too late to continue “upstream,” meaning to Medan. Since Belawan lacks hotels and other useful facilities, travelers are often forced to spend the night in the ship’s cabin, which only adds to their misery. Thus, it’s better to stay offshore and steam up the river early the next morning when the water level allows for safe passage.

The Belawan River offers little to see: overgrown, partially submerged banks and murky water, with occasional tongkan boats and finally the dock. From Belawan to Laboean, one quickly crosses an iron railway bridge by train, which must have been laid with considerable effort and expense. In about an hour, one arrives in Medan. The Deli Railway Company is well-organized, with neat stations, comfortable carriages, and service as punctual as one could expect in Europe. Fifteen years ago, this journey took much longer. Back then, Belawan’s dock didn’t exist, and ships anchored offshore, with passengers being rowed to Laboean. Everything there was very primitive, and at low tide, one might wade knee-deep through mud to reach solid ground. The rest of the journey was by road. In dry weather, this was manageable, but in the wet season, one might sink with the wagon and all, and if uninjured, would have to get out and help the syce (driver) to get the horse and wagon back in order. If that failed, one had to wait for help or summon it from somewhere. What now takes an hour sometimes took half a day or more.

This transformation is reminiscent of conditions in America. In a short time—a timespan that recalls Columbus’s land—Deli has evolved from a wilderness to a somewhat habitable land with Medan as its center, a place that 15 or 20 years ago was marked only by a few huts and could not be found on any map. And what a center it is. Medan is the residence of the resident and his entourage of officials, the seat of the Deli Company’s head administration, and the center of the Deli Railway Company. The branches to Serdang and Langkat originate from Medan, where the main office is located.

Medan offers little to those seeking beautiful buildings or natural scenery; in fact, it remains within the bounds of the mediocre. In front of the station are the necessary rental dos-a-dos and jinricksjaws—two-wheeled carriages pulled by a Chinese man that originated from the Straits—slightly obstructing the view of the esplanade, the pride and glory of Medan. The esplanade, a large square grassy field surrounded by trees and encircled by a walking path, serves as the promenade for the elite, the playground for the children of Medan, the drill field for the garrison, the lawn tennis court for enthusiasts of that sport, and on Sunday afternoons, the garrison band plays there. For all these important reasons, the esplanade can rightly be considered the center of Medan, especially now that a monument for the Tamiang heroes is being built there. Additionally, buildings like the post and telegraph office, the station, the White Society, the “Medan Hotel,” and others surrounding the square further enhance its significance.

The hasty and often temporary nature of the construction in Medan is evident throughout the city. Only a few European houses are entirely made of stone; most are wooden, with a stone foundation, and roofed with tiles, shingles, or atap (palm thatch). The officers’ residences are all made of rough wood with atap roofs. For years, the decision on whether Medan will retain its garrison has been pending, and in the meantime, the officers live near the fort in houses not designed for them. The colonel and the major have officers’ quarters, and the others follow in descending order. The government addresses this by providing an extra allowance for housing, which I believe is the most advantageous arrangement for both parties. The government saves on the cost of new houses, and the additional allowance is a significant help for most officers, given the high cost of living here.

Due to the proximity of the Straits, Dutch currency is rarely used by the locals. A thin, flat dime holds little or no value in their eyes. Dollars are preferred, and although I, like most Europeans, prefer our much lighter and more compact Dutch currency (never mind the many counterfeit rijksdaalders that circulate and cause much trouble), the locals still refuse to use it. A significant advantage for Europeans is the low dollar exchange rate. Although some native merchants have begun to understand that one ringgit blanda (Dutch guilder) is worth almost two regular ringgits and have raised their prices accordingly, the market prices have remained roughly the same, and as a result, wages for native servants have not increased significantly.

But to return to Medan, the market is the main street and, along with a few side streets, forms the lively, commercial part of the town. European stores, Malay shops, Chinese workshops, and kedai (small restaurants or cafes) are all mixed together in a colorful variety. Here and there, you’ll find a European house, and further out, more European homes, occasionally interspersed with native dwellings. Only a few areas are entirely free of native houses, giving them a more attractive, sometimes even picturesque appearance.

The only truly monumental building, surrounded by a decent park, is the palace of the Sultan of Deli. This building, constructed in Eastern style, makes a certain impression on the passerby, especially since there is no other significant structure in Medan. No expense or effort has been spared in its exterior and interior design. After ascending a high stone staircase that gradually slopes upward, one enters a spacious vestibule, which is indeed tastefully built. Both the inner gallery and the other rooms reflect an effort, with the help of European craftsmen, to combine as many Western comforts and ornaments as possible into a cohesive whole. However, it must make a somewhat strange impression on any European visitor when, in an otherwise tastefully decorated room, one sees eight funeral wreaths hanging high on the walls. A smile and a fleeting thought of the bill from the storekeeper are hard to suppress at such a sight. Mundus vult decipi! (The world wants to be deceived!)

As for Deli’s natural beauty, it has long since disappeared. Outside Medan, there is nothing but tobacco fields and jungle, which after 6 or 8 years is cleared to make way for more tobacco. If you want to see forest, jungle, high and low landscapes, and beautiful green vistas interspersed with ravines and waterfalls, you must travel far from Medan, inland, through Langkat to the higher Batak lands. There, it is beautiful, more so than in many parts of Switzerland, but the journey is less convenient, and one must know what one is doing before venturing far into the Batak lands. The conditions among that people are peculiarly filthy: houses and people are downright dirty, and one can easily pick up what is sometimes referred to in Holland as “family.” However, for hunting enthusiasts, Deli is an excellent place, with elephants and tigers in abundance. Not long ago, a gentleman from the Straits, with strong Nimrod-like tendencies, who was staying here, shot a couple of elephants, barely escaping with his life. A few days ago, two female tigers were trapped in quick succession on one of the plantations not far from Medan. The males are still roaming around and are either to be taken or desired, depending on how one sees it. However, you never hear of wild animals attacking Europeans here. Tigers, at least according to reports, are said to be afraid of the white clothing worn by Deli residents; eyewitnesses even claim that they are scared of it. Whether they are afraid or not, I believe it’s wise to stay clear of such creatures and to quickly get out of their way if encountered.

P.S. In my previous letter, I mistakenly referred to the company where Mr. F. worked, whose claim for damages due to breach of contract was awarded, with the letters B.D.M., but it should be R.D.M. instead.